Showing posts with label power. Show all posts
Showing posts with label power. Show all posts

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Emergency Power For Your Home

In the aftermath of one of the largest power outages in BC history, where more than 700,000 people lost their connection to the BC Hydro grid, many for up to 5 days, I decided to write this blog article to outline what a normal person can do to mitigate their electricity supply problem during such events. The focus is on back-up power via battery, but inevitably I suggest ways to actually generate your own power too (when appropriate or even feasible)

Define 'Inconvenience'

First, let's consider the short, intermitted blackout. The ones that happen in November storms when a tree knocks out power to your neighbourhood. Or a transformer quits outside your apartment building. These are the 1-3 hour blackouts that we get once or twice a year. More of a nuisance than a real problem. For these, you might need a flashlight or lantern, a radio for news & entertainment, plus the ability to charge a cell phone. Even if the outage happens in January, and it's minus 20 outside, you should be able to carry on.

However, these outages are not always that simple for people that rely on grid power at all times. Example: medical equipment. Someone living with muscular dystrophy might have a ventilator and absolutely must have power at all times. Similarly, I consult with dozens of people who want portable or emergency power for CPAP machines. Many home medical devices offer back-up batteries of their own, or power alarms, but these rarely address a long-term outage of more than a few hours.

Now, let's consider the big event. Earthquakes, ice storms, tornados, hurricanes, tsunamis, etc. These types of events can knock out power for days or even weeks.
We are told by various public safety agencies that 72 hours (3 days) is an important number when it comes to emergency preparedness. In practical terms, being self-sufficient for 72 hours likely covers well over 95% of the emergency situations we might face in our lifetimes. So, in the analysis that follows, I will consider that 3 days forms the upper limit of power independence for most people. Of course there are ways of building-in expandability if longer time frames are desired.

What Do You Really Need?

Let's start with the basics, and work our way up.

Communications

Phones
Provided that the cell network hasn't gone down with the grid, your cell phone or smartphone is an important communication tool. There are many back-up battery packs to extent your phone's operational time. A solar charger in combination with a battery back-up will go further, but better yet, use a dynamo charger so always have a power source, even in the depths of winter when the sun isn't around.

Remember: plug-in land line telephones draw power from the phone lines themselves. So while your cordless phone is helpless in a power outage, and your cell phone battery will drain even if it can't connect to the cell ntowork, the good 'ol corded countertop phone set may be the only phone system that works!

Radios
We are talking battery-powered radios here. Multiband radios are the best choice, providing the ability to scan AM, FM, Weather Band, and even Shortwave Bands for news & information. Make sure you have a set of batteries available for your radio, so it doesn't quit after an hour or two! A better idea would be to have a self-powered radio in your house. One that charges from solar and/or dynamo hand crank. These are not expensive, and avoid the concern over batteries.

Light

If we consider the worst-case scenario, and plan for emergencies happening in the dark of winter, then we naturally need to have a reliable light source on hand. Most people have a flashlight in their utility drawer or garage, but chances are good that the battery condition is unknown at best. So, like the radio, it is a good idea to have a flashlight that can power itself.
Same thing goes with lanterns, especially those that use expensive 'D' cells. Better to have a rechargeable lantern that provides a way to charge itself.

Heat

This is a common question with a simple answer: Forget using an electrical back-up power source for heat.
The problem is that generating heat from electricity requires quite a bit of power. I like to use a hairdryer as an example... a typical hair dryer would drain power equivalent to a laptop battery in less than 2 minutes. So, for heat, you are best to use wool blankets, foil blankets, wood fireplaces, wall tent heaters (it sits outside & requires a duct for the warm air to enter your house), or hide out in your car. Apartment & condo owners have an advantage of rising heat from the floors below.
Warning! Do not use any propane heater indoors... the exhaust fumes are toxic and potentially fatal. Not to mention the fire hazard.

Medical

For many people, power outages are particularly scary. If you rely on a ventilator, CPAP machine, or any other medical device, you will no doubt have researched back-up power option. I will use a ResMed S9 Elite CPAP machine as an example in this section (feel free to email me with any particular model you would like a calculation for)...

Power consumption of this ResMed model is in the 13 Watt range when using a median pressure setting & no humidifiers or other features requiring heat. This translates to an SLA (sealed lead-acid) battery size of approximately 18 Amp-Hours to support the machine over an 8-hour sleep (allowing for a maximum 50% depth of discharge recommended for SLA batteries). If you use an AC inverter to plug the CPAP into the battery, you will lose approximately 25% of your power in the conversion from DC to AC and back again, meaning a larger battery pack of 24 Amp-Hours. Using a more efficient DC converter or car cigarette plug accessory for your CPAP will save you that power.
Batteries in this size range are relatively small, and weight in the 15 lb range. Very common to have people attach a solar panel for charging the battery during the day, especially while camping.

To estimate the battery capacity required for 3 nights, without any charging source like solar or vehicle, simply multiply by 3. In the above example, 3 nights would be covered by a 54 Amp-Hour battery pack (72 if using an AC inverter). This level of capacity is in the range of what is called a "Group 24" lead-acid battery. These are about the same size & weight as a car battery (50 lbs). Be sure to select a "Deep-Cycle" model, and not one that also touts starting ability. Only deep-cycle batteries are designed for this type of charge/discharge use.

Need a humidifier or other feature involving heat? Your CPAP power consumption will quadruple.

Lithium battery packs are also an option, but tend to have very strict power output limits & may not work for your unit if you use humidifiers or heated hoses. Lithium packs also do not support AC inverters (at least not above 50-60 Watts), and are very expensive. I suggest looking at these only if you need the ultimate in portability.

Technology

In the event that you need to use a computer or tablet during a power outage, despite the fact that the internet in your area will likely be down along with it, you have quite a few options available.
Laptops...
To double the 2-3 hour realistic runtime of a typical laptop requires a back-up battery of at least 60 Watt-Hours. External lithium battery packs for laptops are available, but once you get into day-long computer use, you will be looking at the larger SLA batteries described above & an AC inverter to go with it.
Tablets...
Far more energy efficient than laptops, tablets have modest back-up power needs. In fact, in many cases, they will only demand about twice the power of a smartphone. In the case of an iPad, a 50% battery drain each day amounts to 12-15 Watt-Hours... it will likely be even better while internet access is down & YouTube cat videos unavailable.
Look for external tablet USB batteries like the V44Jumpr Slate, or Jumpr Prime to extend your tablet beyond 2-3 days with modest use.

A Quick Word About AC Inverters...
Standard 'Modified Sinewave' inverters will usually work fine for most laptops & medical equipment. But for the best performance, and longevity of your computers & medical equipment, I recommend a Pure Sinewave inverter. The cleaner power is easier on your equipment, and won't create noise on sensitive equipment or audio/video equipment. 250 Watts to 350 Watts is usually sufficient for CPAPs, while 800 Watt models or larger should be used with fridges & freezers (see below).

Refrigeration

Every time the power goes out, the question pops into your head: "Do I eat all the ice cream now, or wait an hour until it starts melting?" Forget the leftovers, what about the eggs in the fridge, or the meat in the freezer?
Like the problems of generating heat from electricity, cooling can be almost as costly in terms of electrons. A 16cu-ft fridge/freezer can draw over 400 Watts for more than 12 hours total each day. What does it take to back-up this level of power consumption?
400 Watts for 12 hours a day amounts to 4,800 watt-hours per day.
For comparison, there is approximately 1,400 watt-hours of useable power in a pair of deep cycle golf cart batteries. If you were to connect an AC inverter to such a battery bank, you could operate your fridge for around 6 hours. Not bad for the short outages, but not so good for the big ones.

To handle a power outage of more than a day, you could purchase a generator, but this gets tricky since the fridge is not always 'on', thus wasting fuel. Not to mention that you would need to keep enough fuel on hand. Gen sets are not an option for apartment or condo dwellers of course.

Solar? Well, to offset just the fridge described above would require a 1KW system in most parts of Canada in the summer months. Winter? Get a big battery bank! Again, this is not an option for apartment or condo dwellers.

The solution? Think small & efficient. Use a small chest freezer on a low setting to keep things from spoiling. Chest freezers are more efficient than upright fridge/freezers, and on a 'low' setting you could double or triple your battery life support time.

In Conclusion

There was life in the universe before the power utility, and just because they experience a glitch, or get rattled for a few days doesn't mean you can't enjoy a few 21st century amenities.

Take time to make an inventory of the equipment you absolutely must have operational during a power outage, and how many hours or days this involves. Use this article to locate the power equipment that will get you there.

Need help?
I am happy to assist with the number crunching.
Send me your priority list via email, and I'll let you know what it will take to meet your specific needs.

... ...
Vancouver Wind Storm Coverage...





Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Solar Charger vs More Camera Batteries

The question almost always comes up... do I really need a solar charger for my upcoming wilderness trek, or should I just buy a bunch of camera batteries?
Knowing that you will be away from power for days, weeks, or even months, what is the best way to keep your camera charged?

The decision comes down to the following: how long the trip is, and how many other devices you need to keep charged (GPS, headlamps, phones, radios, etc), and how well you are able to budget power.

Remember... If you only pack camera batteries, then once you are out, you are out!

Let's look at your options for cameras first, and then we will consider your other gear...

1. Extra Camera Batteries

Most people who take their cameras on their adventures find that they get anywhere from 1-3 days per battery. Anyone sensible will be taking a spare, so with two or even three batteries, you will be able to power through 3-9 days (if nothing goes wrong!). So, for weekend trips, take a couple of batteries with you, and you will be fine.
dSLR camera are a lot more power hungry than the smaller point & shoots, and most serious photographers I talk to seem to want to budget 1 day per battery.

A quick look at the current price of dSLR batteries will quickly make you look for alternatives for longer time frames. At anywhere from $80-$120 per battery, the 2 or 3 batteries you probably already have in your camera bag will suffice if you are looking at a trip of 7 days or less. But, you will need to control your shutterbug urges and stick to a power budget!
Because when your batteries are drained... you are done with the camera.

2. Solar Storage Battery = 3 dSLR batteries

Going for longer than 1 week?
Consider the advantages of using a solar storage battery to pack the extra power you will need. Cheaper than a complete solar kit, and cheaper than buying more camera batteries.

A solar storage battery is the equivalent of 3-4 camera batteries, but when you consider that the price tag is not much more than a new Canon LP-E6 battery, the economics is obvious. Combined with your 2-3 back-up batteries, you now have the ability to go up to 2 weeks, or even 3 weeks for the smaller point-and-shoot cameras.

The advantages of using a solar storage battery...
1. Economy - saving money over buying more camera batteries.
2. Expandability - being able to add a solar panel later if you ever want to.
3. Versatility - works with any camera brand/model. There's nothing worse than having a bag full of model x batteries @ $70each, only to decide to buy a new camera a year later.


What does a solar storage battery look like?
Here's a current top seller... Voltaic V60

How would you get the power from the storage battery into your camera?
Use the solar storage battery to drive a universal battery charger or DC car charger for your particular camera model. The AC charger that came with your camera is not designed for this job.
examples: Ansmann Vario or DC LP-E6 charger.

3. Complete Solar Power Kit

This is for serious trekkers... this is the power system that generates power continuously. You will never run out of power as long as the sun comes up each day. The power varies with the strength of sunlight (latitude and weather), but we take all that into account when we recommend equipment for you.
So, if your trip is longer than 1-2 weeks, and/or you would rather not take chances with getting your power budget correct, using a complete solar kit is your best option.

solar panel -> storage battery -> battery charger -> camera battery



How does it work?
Plug the solar storage battery into the solar panel to start collecting charge.
Whenever you need to top-off a camera battery, simply fit it into the camera charger and plug the charger into the universal battery. Just like you plug it into the wall at home (except we use DC instead of AC power when we're packing it on our backs).

There are many ways to design the solar kit. From fully integrated packs, to custom plug-n-play sets of equipment. Be sure to get information about several options that fit your mode of transport, weight restrictions, and power needs.

What about other electronics?

It is a fairly simple matter to add all sorts of other devices to the mix, and have everything charged from the same power system. We budget for power consumption in things like GPS receivers, headlamp batteries, phones, and even laptops. A good solar storage battery like the V60 is able to provide the voltages needed to support all this gear, and many times you still only need one charger cradle to support them all.

Discover Your Options...

Want to know what I would recommend for you to have a completely independent power system that works everywhere?
... Just let me know where you are going, for how long, what time of year, and what camera(s) & other gear you want to pack, and I will let you know what equipment will serve you best.

Friday, October 4, 2013

Charging dSLR Camera Batteries from USB

The portable power and portable solar charger world is divided into two camps: USB & 12V. USB for the small stuff, and 12V for the big stuff. The smaller solar USB chargers are designed to keep phones & iPods charged. The larger 12V solar products being used to charge just about everything up to & including laptops, medical equipment, and homes. But what if you want to use a USB source to charge a dSLR camera battery? Can you charge a 7.4V battery from a 5V source?

Digital Cameras & Solar Chargers

If you have a small point-and-shoot camera, chances are the camera uses a small 3.6V or 3.7V lithium battery pack. There are great, because they can often charge inside the camera when plugged into a USB source (ie for image download), or via small USB chargers like the LenMar Clip.

 dSLR camera batteries do not have it so easy. At 7.2V or 7.4V, their battery chargers needed to provide something in the range of 8.4V, which means using a 12V system to get the voltage they need. And 12V solar kits are usually larger and more expensive than their smaller USB cousins.

Now there is a solution...

For years, I have been recommending universal chargers like the Ansmann Vario, Ansmann Vario Pro, and the Lenmar BCUNI2. These chargers do a fine job charging 3.6/3.7V, 7.2/7.4V, and AA batteries from a wall socket or 12V car socket (including 12V solar panels & battery packs). One charger to do it all. As noted in other articles I've written on the subject, the only camera battery I have come across so far that does not fit these universal chargers is the Canon LP-E6 (battery terminal contacts are too close together).
When a client needed to charge their Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, or other dSLR camera models while out in the bush, I would direct them to 12V systems, and one of these universal chargers.

But now, a new universal charger is available that allows these larger camera batteries to be charged from a USB source. The advantage is being able to pack smaller, lighter USB solar kits & storage batteries to keep the cameras charged...

PIXO C-USB Universal Charger from PIXO of Germany
Features...
Automatically selects correct voltage & polarity
Charge rate up to 800mA
USB2 & USB3 compatible
Adjusts to a wide variety of camera battery sizes & shapes
Deep discharge battery revival mode

Brief Review...
I've had the chance to use the PIXO C-USB charger for a little over 3 months now, and so far it has performed very well. The USB input port & included cable are very robust. The charger chassis is solid, including the sliding door which holds the battery in place. The springs which help to hold the battery firmly in place are strong. The terminal blades are rather important, and the PIXO's are plenty tough - would be quite difficult to bend.
The charging performance itself has been good. It clearly indicates charging modes (charging/end), and it doesn't take much longer than a wall charger would to bring a camera battery up from 50% depletion. It is slightly slower when charging a 7V camera battery due to the voltage transform (I used a Sony NP-F550 as a test).

Conclusion...
I have no problem recommending the PIXO C-USB charger. Best of all, I am no longer bound to 12V options for dSLR users. I can now specify USB-based solar & battery packages like the Voltaic FUSE 6W or Nepal 6 Kit to people who want to take their dSLR cameras into the wild.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions regarding this charger.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Personal Power for Nepal Trekkers

I just helped Mick Bromley of Wilderness Trekking head off to Nepal on his latest excursion with two sets of portable solar power systems. One is designed to keep a videographer's equipment charged while he chronicles Mick's legendary attention to every aspect of the Nepal experience. The second is for Mick himself, so that he is able to keep his own camera, tablet, and communications gear charged. His system will also come in handy when his clients need a power boost for their own cameras.

Here is an overview of the systems...

For the VideographerSunLINQ 5 Solar Panel with Brunton Sustain2 Storage Battery & LP-E6 DC Charger
The SunLINQ panel folds down small & light, and features CIGS efficient thin film cells that excel in the high-UV exposure at altitude, and at the higher ambient temperatures in the lower regions of the country. The Brunton Sustain is a ruggedized lithium pack that stores 75 Watt-Hours of power... enough for 5 full charges on a Canon dSLR battery, so there is plenty of back-up in case of several days of inclement weather.
The balance is in the logistics. With the panel deployed for several hours each day during stops, or at camp, the power produced will easily offset the power being drawn for camera battery charging & video editing/archiving. The power budget was designed around the need for 2-3 Canon LP-E6 charges per day. Because it is never a good idea to drain a lithium battery below 50% on a regular basis, the videographer will be bringing several battery packs that he will top-off at various times during the day & at camp at night.
Lastly, I do not like the DC input connector provided with the Brunton Sustain2. Too fragile, and introduces a mysterious voltage drop that makes it incompatible with slightly lower voltage panels like the Powerfilm series. So, I sent one of the Modern Outpost Solar Input Cables... a tougher & much longer cable that makes camp set-up options easier.

For Mick : Voltaic Fuse 10W with Ansmann Vario Pro Charger
This is a fantastic solar kit. 10W of premium Bosch crystalline solar cells in a rugged encapsulation, set into a rugged case that can carry a laptop & tablet at the same time. The case features webbing on the back, so strapping it to the outside of a backpack is a simple task. Having all the solar charging gear in one place instead of being spread around with wiring has its advantages too. Mick simply opens the case and connects his camera charger, tablet, phone, radio, or virtually anything else he might need.
The panels produce the power he needs each day, and just in case he runs into bad weather, he has 60 Watt-Hours of power stored in the Fuse10W's internal V60 battery pack.
While laptops, tablets, and USB devices can all be connected directly to the Fuse10's internal battery pack, getting the power from the Fuse10 kit into camera batteries is done via an Ansmann Vario Pro universal charger. Plug the charger into the 12V socket on the Fuse10, snap your camera battery into the cradle, and the charger selects the correct voltage, polarity, and begins charging. It even shows you the state-of-charge so you can better manage your power usage.
Simple. Elegant. Functional. Reliable.

Mick's Client Pick :  Fuse 4W with Pixo Charger
Mick and I talked about an option for his clients, should they want to bring a charger of their own. Something simple to use, simple to pack, rugged, and able to charge virtually any type of camera, phone, iPod, etc. The Voltaic Fuse 4W fits perfectly. 4 Watts of German-made Bosch panels in a small pack that straps to a backpack. Inside is room for small gadgets, & the 4000mAHr solar storage battery, capable of charging or powering everything USB including tablets.
The German Pixo charger is universal, adapting to all 3.6/3.7V camera batteries, plus all 7.2/7.4V dSLR & camcorder batteries (a neat trick not seen in other USB chargers).
This kit is able to offset approx 75% of a dSLR battery every day, or a mix of devices adding up to same.

Well, that's it. Trekking with electronics made easy.
Should you need any further details, or want help with the math concerning your own trekking power needs, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Best!

Friday, July 19, 2013

Showdown : Thin Film vs Crystalline Solar Panels

As should be expected, I get asked all the time what is the best solar panel to use. There are essentially two types: Thin Film & Crystalline. Each have their own sub groups, like amorphous silicone & CIGS in the thin film realm, and poly crystalline and monocrystalline in the other. But what is the 'best'? The answer is, as it always is... it depends.

I know, that is not very satisfying. So I will look at the technologies from several different perspectives. These are the metrics that people care about most when purchasing a solar charger, and my suggestion would be to choose the three that are most important to you, and choose the technology that satisfies these best.

1. Efficiency
The efficiency title goes to the crystalline solar cells.
Crystalline solar cells are upwards of 20% efficient in commercial-grade cells now, compared to something in the 10% range for the thin films.
However, you need to understand what this means. This does NOT mean that a 5W crystalline panel is more powerful than a 5W thin film. A Watt is a Watt after all, and in peak sun, two 5W panels will each be generating 5W of power regardless of the solar chemistry. A higher efficiency simply means that you will produce more Watts per square meter. The 5W thin film will be approximately twice the size of the 5W crystalline panel.

2. Weight
The weight loss winner is: Thin Film.
Even though the crystalline solar panel is half the size, it weighs more due to the rigid backing needed to protect the crystalline cell wafers & associated wiring. All that aluminum, plastic, resin, & PVC add to the weight of the crystalline solar panels. If only silicon wafers weren't so fragile!
Thin films on the other hand can be laminated or even sprayed onto all sorts of surfaces. The result is solar panels that can be flexible, and add far less weight to your pack.
If you need to carry it, the thin film panels will be nicer to your knees.

3. Sensitivity
It's not psychology, it's chemistry... Thin films are more sensitive
This is a VERY IMPORTANT attribute, and one which should be considered carefully. Sensitivity simply means that the solar cells will start generating power in lower light levels. The practical side of this is that a thin film panel will enjoy a longer charging day than crystalline panels will.
An experiment to illustrate...
I ran a test of several different solar panels one drizzly morning in late May. I had a Powerfilm R-7 rollable, a Brunton SolarFlat 5, Goal Zero Nomad 7, SunLINQ 3, and a Voltaic 3.4W kit. The only panels that were producing enough voltage at 10am on that drizzly, overcast, late spring morning were the thin films (Powerfilm, Brunton, SunLINQ). The crystalline panels were back at 50% of their nominal charging voltage. Crystalline solar cells work best in direct sunlight. Anything else, and thin films are your best option.

4. Durability
I give the championship belt to... thin film.
Voltaic Fuse 10W - Crystalline
This is a difficult parameter to gauge sometimes, because a lot depends on the construction of the product itself. But, when I think about which solar panels could survive being dropped off a cliff, there is no question that being lightweight & flexible has its advantages.
Durability is not to be confused with longevity... the 20-year power output warranty on crystalline panels is not yet matched by the thin films. Crystalline wafers lose their ability to generate power over a much longer time frame.

5. Cost
The winner is you.
What I mean by this is that product differentiation has rendered this parameter almost impossible to gauge. There are so many products for so many applications using so many variations of solar cells, that the only way to consider 'cost' properly is to shortlist products based on the above parameters, and then consider cost last. But, if we look at the cost of a basic framed panels to level the construction materials & manufacturing playing field, then we can see a slight advantage to crystalline panels. Maybe it has something to do with an over-supply of solar cells from China in recent years, but a quick web price search and calculation shows approx $5/Watt for crystalline, and $6/Watt for thin film.

How to choose?
Powerfilm R7 Rollable - Thin Film
I always start with the question: "Where are you going?"
If you are a westcoast Kayaker, or work in the mountains or up north where the weather is relatively unpredictable, you will likely find a more sensitive solar panel (ie thin film) to be your best option. If you do education programs in rural Africa, or development missions to Haiti, where direct sunlight is not a problem, then crystalline panels may be your best value.
Then consider matching the size of the panel to your power needs, deciding on power storage batteries, and the packability of the product, connectivity, etc.

Need any help choosing?
Send me a note!

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Considering A Goal Zero Solar Kit? Read this first.

Everyone in the solar industry has at least heard of Goal Zero by now. They are the American portable solar power company that was born out of african humanitarian aid projects. Goal Zero builds some fantastic products... heck, I sell a lot of them myself (see here). And Goal Zero does a great job of marketing their equipment, which is why you can find it almost everywhere solar panels and innovative outdoor gear are sold. But, should they be on your equipment short-list?

Just as the old saying goes: "There is a tool for every job", so it is with packable solar power systems. In this article, I will take a look at several popular Goal Zero power kits, suggest the best applications for them, and suggest excellent alternatives that may be better suited to your specific needs.

A few numbers to help you compare:
     Smart Phone battery full charge = 5-6 Watt-Hours
     GPS receiver battery full charge = 8+ Watt-Hours
     Tablet PC battery full charge = 20+ Watt-Hours
     Laptop battery full charge = 50+ Watt-Hours


Onward...

The Goal Zero Switch 8 : $139.99 (est)
This is the latest kit release from Goal Zero. It features their Nomad 3.5 folding panel, with the new Switch8 lithium USB battery pack. Following are the key specifications...
     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline
     Max power generation : 2.5 Watts (USB)
                or 3 Watts if using the Guide10 battery
     Power Storage : 7.92 Watt-Hours
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 310g (11.2oz)
The verdict:
Like all Goal Zero products, this kit is very well built to take the abuse of wilderness use. The monocrystalline panel is best suited to direct sunlight, so it makes sense for regions that have a lot of sunshine (Africa, SW USA, Mexico, etc).
But, an integrated Voltaic charger like the Fuse 4W provides better performance with the same solar technology for less money, plus you get a very nice gear case...

Voltaic Fuse 4W : $129.99
     
Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline
     Max power generation : 4 Watts
     Power Storage : 11.1 Watt-Hours
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 600g (20.8oz)


So, that being said, what USB solar charger would be my lead recommendation for difficult Canadian & other North American locations? If there is a good chance you will get partial shade, variable sun exposure, variable weather, or will be working at high latitudes, then the following will be the best options for you...

1. SUNLINQ1 + Voltaic V11 : $99.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 2 Watts
        Power Storage : 11.1 Watt-Hours
        Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
        Total Weight : 2.21g (7.9oz)
        - lighter weight, more sensitive in low-light & partial shade,
          & more affordable


2. SUNLINQ2 + Voltaic V39 : $189.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 4 Watts
        Power Storage : 39 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 2.1A @ 5V USB (supports tablets)
        Total Weight : 540g (19oz)
        - More power in any light condition, greater sensitivity,
          & greater power storage.



The Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Adventure Kit : $119.99 (est)
This is the most popular Goal Zero kit. It features their Nomad 7 folding panel, with the Guide 10 Plus USB battery pack. This kit has all sorts of strange specifications... it says the rated output of the panel is 7 Watts, but the most you can get out of it is 6 Watts (USB) if connected directly to the Guide 10 pack using the special cable.
Following are the key specifications...
     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline
     Max power generation : 2.5 Watts (USB), 3 Watts (12V socket),
                          or 6 Watts via special Guide10 interface cable
     Power Storage : 12 Watt-Hours
                         (using 4 NiMh rechargeables - included)
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB via Guide 10,
                         (see above for max solar-direct performance)
     Total Weight : 540g (19.2oz)
The verdict:
I find this kit to be a bit disappointing... for $120 you get a very low-power 12V charger, and a very ordinary USB charger. I like the concept of the dual-voltage Nomad panel, but it is NOT a 7W panel! At the performance level of the Nomad 7, you should not expect to be able to charge many things directly from the panel... certainly not your iPhone or iPad. The monocrystalline solar cell type is best suited to direct sunlight, so it makes sense for regions that have a lot of sunshine (Africa, SW USA, Mexico, etc), so you might get frustrated in non-intense sunlight.
The Guide 10 performs well, and being able to use NiMh cells comes in handy, but even it lacks the punch to support many of the new 'smart' devices while they are running.
So, what alternatives would I recommend for Canadian latitudes & most North American locations? What systems would properly support 12V & USB devices in difficult weather & mountainous terrain?...


1. Powerfilm F5 + Novuscell 24 : $279.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 4.8 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 24 Watt-Hours
        Max output : approx 20 Watts (2.1A @ 5V USB -or- 2A @ 11.1V)
        Total Weight : 340g (12oz)
        - lighter weight, more sensitive in low-light & partial shade,
           & powers far more 12V & USB devices (which is the point!)


2. Powerfilm R-7 + Voltaic V60 : $289.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 6.9 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 60 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 48 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 840g (29.6oz)
        - More power in any light condition, greater sensitivity,
          waterproof solar, & greater power storage,
          varied output voltage support.

Keep these options in mind, as they form a foundation for looking at the next level of portable power. This brings us to the last of the three Goal Zero kits I will look at in this article...

The Sherpa 50 Solar Recharger : $349.99 (est)
Goal Zero has put this kit together to address the varied needs of remote camps, serious trekkers, and anyone who has a comprehensive list of electronics to keep running while miles from civilization. The 13W Nomad panel is a good match to the Sherpa 50, and the combination supports both 12V & USB devices.
Here are the details...
     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline
     Max power generation : 13 Watts (12V), 5W (USB)
     Power Storage : 55 Watt-Hours (Sherpa 50 v2)
     Max output : 75W @ 12V & 1.5A @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 1.22Kg (2.7 lbs)

The verdict:
This is a good kit, but again designed for sunny, tropical environments. The Nomad 13 panel provides solid 12V output, plus a USB option that is strong enough for fussy USB devices (in full sun of course). If you really need household AC power (not recommended), there is an inverter option for the Sherpa and this in itself is unique for a lithium system.

So, what alternatives to the Sherpa 50 Solar Kit would I recommend for Canadian latitudes & most other North American locations? What systems would properly support 12V & USB devices in difficult weather & mountainous terrain?


First, I will dispense with an AC inverter option. This is rarely needed as there are more efficient DC options available for most devices. Therefore we are left with specifying a comparable solar panel, but with improved low-light sensitivity, and bundle it with a storage battery that supports 12V & USB devices.
Here they are...


1. SUNLINQ4 + Brunton Sustain : $444.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 12 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 72 Watt-Hours
        Max output : 
up to 60 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 937g (2.06 lbs)


2. Powerfilm R-14 + Voltaic V60 : $379.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 13.9 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 60 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 48 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 1.14Kg (2.5 lbs)


This concludes my little report on Goal Zero and what alternative equipment combinations I would recommend for Canadian & North American locations. Again, the point of the exercise is to pack along equipment that will work under the widest range of conditions. Goal Zero equipment is good, but not the best option in challenging northern latitudes.

I understand that I presented quite a few numbers here. Sorry about that. I tried to keep them simple so that you can make meaningful comparisons between devices. If you have any questions regarding anything I have presented here, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Cheers!

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Camping With Your CPAP or BiPAP Machine


As a portable power guy, I get asked quite frequently about powering CPAP & BiPAP machines while camping. My former business partner uses a ventilator in managing his Duchenne's Muscular Dystrophy, so this application is important to me.

First Things First… What is a Watt?

It's difficult to have any discussion of electricity without some basic math. But, I will try to keep it to a minimum. All you really need to know is that I have done some calculations to know how fast your CPAP or BiPAP machine will be taking power out of a battery pack, so that I can estimate how many hours you can operate your machine while camping away from a power source before the battery needs to be recharged.

Powering the Machine…

What I have found in my research, is that a typical machine (Respironics, ResMed, and the like), will draw between 20 & 30 Watts (2-2.5Amps) when not using the humidifier. What this means is that you can use fairly standard battery packs to support your machine through several nights out in a tent.

For example, I have had clients use a battery pack with 150 Watt-Hour capacity to get a full night's sleep of 8 hours with plenty of room to spare. Others have been able to get two 6-hour nights using stingy CPAP machine settings.
Here are a few battery pack options to consider…

Brunton Impel : 145 Watt-Hours : 1-2 nights
Novuscell C150 : 150 Watt-Hours : 1-2 nights
Novuscell C220 : 220 Watt-Hours : 2-3 nights
100 AHr 12V Deep Cycle : 600 Watt-Hours : 3-4 nights

Making Connections...

Most CPAP & BiPAP machines either come with a car adaptor, or have one available as an option from the manufacturer. This is a key piece of equipment, because all battery packs are DC, and this "CLA" connector will let you plug your CPAP into the battery pack exactly as you would plug it into the dashboard of your car. All the battery packs listed above come equipped with this 'CLA' socket just like in your car, and are plug-n-play with your CPAP machine.

Can you use AC power if you want? It can be done, but it is NOT recommended for several reasons. First, inverters waste 20-30% of your battery power in making AC power which your CPAP will be turning back into DC power anyway. So don't waste this power if you don't need to... use the DC car plug for your CPAP. Secondly, most Lithium batteries do not support AC inverters. The Novuscell models listed above are able to handle small 200W inverters, but save them the stress and stick to DC. Lastly, using an inverter just adds one more piece of equipment to carry, so use only when necessary.

Portability…

One of the most important aspects of camping is to be able to go into remote areas. To do this comfortably means NOT packing anything too heavy, so it becomes a balancing act between weight and the amount of power you need each night.
The lightest battery packs are lithium-based, such as the Brunton Impel, and Novuscell models listed above. In a battery that weighs only 2-4 pounds, you can store enough power for up to 3 nights.

Recharging In The Wild…

What do you do if you need more than 1-2 nights' support for your CPAP or BiPAP machine?
In the absence of a vehicle to act as a generator for recharging your CPAP camping battery, one of the most logical solutions is to use portable solar panels. For example, a 20 Watt panel will offset approx 50% of your CPAP power usage, while a 60 Watt panel will completely replace the power you use each night.
Here are a few examples of such panels (smallest I would recommend). I have selected the panels that perform best in partial shade (ie under trees), and in low-light conditions (ie overcast), because you never know what you might get out there…

Powerfilm R-21 : Waterproof, rollable, tough
Solaris 26 : Folding efficiency
Powerfilm 20 : Folding sensitivity (the lightest option)

Affording A Portable Power System…

At this point, you might be thinking that these products are rather expensive for someone who might only be going camping with their CPAP or BiPAP machine a couple of times each summer. To help, Modern Outpost has introduced a power system rental program. Now you can save the expense of owning a portable solar power system, and be sure of getting the latest & greatest equipment for supporting your CPAP while camping.

I hope this helps.
If you have any comments, questions, suggestions, or experience that will add to this discussion, please share it with us.
Best!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

12V DC Car Adaptor for Apple MacBook Magsafe

Attention all MacBook users!
Your day of freedom is coming!
In the next 2 weeks, Modern Outpost will be releasing a new 12V DC Car Adaptor for the Apple MacBook MagSafe connector.
What does this mean to you?
Two things...
1. You will be able to charge & run your Apple MacBook computer from your car's cigarette lighter socket
2. You will be able to charge & run your Apple MacBook computer from your solar power system

Hasn't this been done before?
Not really. Certainly none by any mainstream manufacturer of DC power adaptors at this point. Here's what we see on the market at the moment...

- Nothing from Apple yet except an airline adaptor, which doesn't do any voltage adapting, but simply provides a cable to connect the airline seat (not all seats) to a MagSafe to fit your MacBook. Although one of the ends looks like a car plug, it will not charge from a car socket, as the MacBook needs 16.5V, and car battery power is only in the 12-14v range.

- Custom builds... a few sites say that they can put an adaptor together for you, but either you need to supply the MagSafe, or they will cut it off a dead AC adaptor and built it onto an adaptor for you. Of course that want upwards of $150 for these custom builds!

Modern Outpost will be providing a simple solution to all this... a DC power adaptor with MagSafe end. Set the voltage and plug it in. Simple.

The other issue Modern Outpost will solve is one of price.
Why should MacBook users pay $150 for a DC adaptor, when PC adaptors are typically under $80?
The new MacBook MagSafe DC adaptor will be priced under $80.
For more information, check the website...
ModernOutpost.com
or join our monthly newsletter mailing list, where a formal release announcement will be made at the end of June...
Modern Outpost Newsletter

Thanks for reading.