Showing posts with label canada. Show all posts
Showing posts with label canada. Show all posts

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Emergency Power For Your Home

In the aftermath of one of the largest power outages in BC history, where more than 700,000 people lost their connection to the BC Hydro grid, many for up to 5 days, I decided to write this blog article to outline what a normal person can do to mitigate their electricity supply problem during such events. The focus is on back-up power via battery, but inevitably I suggest ways to actually generate your own power too (when appropriate or even feasible)

Define 'Inconvenience'

First, let's consider the short, intermitted blackout. The ones that happen in November storms when a tree knocks out power to your neighbourhood. Or a transformer quits outside your apartment building. These are the 1-3 hour blackouts that we get once or twice a year. More of a nuisance than a real problem. For these, you might need a flashlight or lantern, a radio for news & entertainment, plus the ability to charge a cell phone. Even if the outage happens in January, and it's minus 20 outside, you should be able to carry on.

However, these outages are not always that simple for people that rely on grid power at all times. Example: medical equipment. Someone living with muscular dystrophy might have a ventilator and absolutely must have power at all times. Similarly, I consult with dozens of people who want portable or emergency power for CPAP machines. Many home medical devices offer back-up batteries of their own, or power alarms, but these rarely address a long-term outage of more than a few hours.

Now, let's consider the big event. Earthquakes, ice storms, tornados, hurricanes, tsunamis, etc. These types of events can knock out power for days or even weeks.
We are told by various public safety agencies that 72 hours (3 days) is an important number when it comes to emergency preparedness. In practical terms, being self-sufficient for 72 hours likely covers well over 95% of the emergency situations we might face in our lifetimes. So, in the analysis that follows, I will consider that 3 days forms the upper limit of power independence for most people. Of course there are ways of building-in expandability if longer time frames are desired.

What Do You Really Need?

Let's start with the basics, and work our way up.

Communications

Phones
Provided that the cell network hasn't gone down with the grid, your cell phone or smartphone is an important communication tool. There are many back-up battery packs to extent your phone's operational time. A solar charger in combination with a battery back-up will go further, but better yet, use a dynamo charger so always have a power source, even in the depths of winter when the sun isn't around.

Remember: plug-in land line telephones draw power from the phone lines themselves. So while your cordless phone is helpless in a power outage, and your cell phone battery will drain even if it can't connect to the cell ntowork, the good 'ol corded countertop phone set may be the only phone system that works!

Radios
We are talking battery-powered radios here. Multiband radios are the best choice, providing the ability to scan AM, FM, Weather Band, and even Shortwave Bands for news & information. Make sure you have a set of batteries available for your radio, so it doesn't quit after an hour or two! A better idea would be to have a self-powered radio in your house. One that charges from solar and/or dynamo hand crank. These are not expensive, and avoid the concern over batteries.

Light

If we consider the worst-case scenario, and plan for emergencies happening in the dark of winter, then we naturally need to have a reliable light source on hand. Most people have a flashlight in their utility drawer or garage, but chances are good that the battery condition is unknown at best. So, like the radio, it is a good idea to have a flashlight that can power itself.
Same thing goes with lanterns, especially those that use expensive 'D' cells. Better to have a rechargeable lantern that provides a way to charge itself.

Heat

This is a common question with a simple answer: Forget using an electrical back-up power source for heat.
The problem is that generating heat from electricity requires quite a bit of power. I like to use a hairdryer as an example... a typical hair dryer would drain power equivalent to a laptop battery in less than 2 minutes. So, for heat, you are best to use wool blankets, foil blankets, wood fireplaces, wall tent heaters (it sits outside & requires a duct for the warm air to enter your house), or hide out in your car. Apartment & condo owners have an advantage of rising heat from the floors below.
Warning! Do not use any propane heater indoors... the exhaust fumes are toxic and potentially fatal. Not to mention the fire hazard.

Medical

For many people, power outages are particularly scary. If you rely on a ventilator, CPAP machine, or any other medical device, you will no doubt have researched back-up power option. I will use a ResMed S9 Elite CPAP machine as an example in this section (feel free to email me with any particular model you would like a calculation for)...

Power consumption of this ResMed model is in the 13 Watt range when using a median pressure setting & no humidifiers or other features requiring heat. This translates to an SLA (sealed lead-acid) battery size of approximately 18 Amp-Hours to support the machine over an 8-hour sleep (allowing for a maximum 50% depth of discharge recommended for SLA batteries). If you use an AC inverter to plug the CPAP into the battery, you will lose approximately 25% of your power in the conversion from DC to AC and back again, meaning a larger battery pack of 24 Amp-Hours. Using a more efficient DC converter or car cigarette plug accessory for your CPAP will save you that power.
Batteries in this size range are relatively small, and weight in the 15 lb range. Very common to have people attach a solar panel for charging the battery during the day, especially while camping.

To estimate the battery capacity required for 3 nights, without any charging source like solar or vehicle, simply multiply by 3. In the above example, 3 nights would be covered by a 54 Amp-Hour battery pack (72 if using an AC inverter). This level of capacity is in the range of what is called a "Group 24" lead-acid battery. These are about the same size & weight as a car battery (50 lbs). Be sure to select a "Deep-Cycle" model, and not one that also touts starting ability. Only deep-cycle batteries are designed for this type of charge/discharge use.

Need a humidifier or other feature involving heat? Your CPAP power consumption will quadruple.

Lithium battery packs are also an option, but tend to have very strict power output limits & may not work for your unit if you use humidifiers or heated hoses. Lithium packs also do not support AC inverters (at least not above 50-60 Watts), and are very expensive. I suggest looking at these only if you need the ultimate in portability.

Technology

In the event that you need to use a computer or tablet during a power outage, despite the fact that the internet in your area will likely be down along with it, you have quite a few options available.
Laptops...
To double the 2-3 hour realistic runtime of a typical laptop requires a back-up battery of at least 60 Watt-Hours. External lithium battery packs for laptops are available, but once you get into day-long computer use, you will be looking at the larger SLA batteries described above & an AC inverter to go with it.
Tablets...
Far more energy efficient than laptops, tablets have modest back-up power needs. In fact, in many cases, they will only demand about twice the power of a smartphone. In the case of an iPad, a 50% battery drain each day amounts to 12-15 Watt-Hours... it will likely be even better while internet access is down & YouTube cat videos unavailable.
Look for external tablet USB batteries like the V44Jumpr Slate, or Jumpr Prime to extend your tablet beyond 2-3 days with modest use.

A Quick Word About AC Inverters...
Standard 'Modified Sinewave' inverters will usually work fine for most laptops & medical equipment. But for the best performance, and longevity of your computers & medical equipment, I recommend a Pure Sinewave inverter. The cleaner power is easier on your equipment, and won't create noise on sensitive equipment or audio/video equipment. 250 Watts to 350 Watts is usually sufficient for CPAPs, while 800 Watt models or larger should be used with fridges & freezers (see below).

Refrigeration

Every time the power goes out, the question pops into your head: "Do I eat all the ice cream now, or wait an hour until it starts melting?" Forget the leftovers, what about the eggs in the fridge, or the meat in the freezer?
Like the problems of generating heat from electricity, cooling can be almost as costly in terms of electrons. A 16cu-ft fridge/freezer can draw over 400 Watts for more than 12 hours total each day. What does it take to back-up this level of power consumption?
400 Watts for 12 hours a day amounts to 4,800 watt-hours per day.
For comparison, there is approximately 1,400 watt-hours of useable power in a pair of deep cycle golf cart batteries. If you were to connect an AC inverter to such a battery bank, you could operate your fridge for around 6 hours. Not bad for the short outages, but not so good for the big ones.

To handle a power outage of more than a day, you could purchase a generator, but this gets tricky since the fridge is not always 'on', thus wasting fuel. Not to mention that you would need to keep enough fuel on hand. Gen sets are not an option for apartment or condo dwellers of course.

Solar? Well, to offset just the fridge described above would require a 1KW system in most parts of Canada in the summer months. Winter? Get a big battery bank! Again, this is not an option for apartment or condo dwellers.

The solution? Think small & efficient. Use a small chest freezer on a low setting to keep things from spoiling. Chest freezers are more efficient than upright fridge/freezers, and on a 'low' setting you could double or triple your battery life support time.

In Conclusion

There was life in the universe before the power utility, and just because they experience a glitch, or get rattled for a few days doesn't mean you can't enjoy a few 21st century amenities.

Take time to make an inventory of the equipment you absolutely must have operational during a power outage, and how many hours or days this involves. Use this article to locate the power equipment that will get you there.

Need help?
I am happy to assist with the number crunching.
Send me your priority list via email, and I'll let you know what it will take to meet your specific needs.

... ...
Vancouver Wind Storm Coverage...





Monday, March 23, 2015

Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Review - A Canadian Perspective

A lot of places sell the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus solar recharger. MEC sells it. Costco often sells it. Modern Outpost sells it. Is it worth the money?

In this brief article, I'll tell you what you need to know about the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus so you can make an informed decision before buying this or one of its competitor products.

What's In The Box?

When you purchase a Guide 10 Plus solar kit, you are getting a Nomad 7 solar panel, and a Guide 10 AA/AAA USB power bank.

Brief Specifications Overview

Nomad 7 Solar Panel
Solar Cell Type : Crystalline
Rated Power : 7 Watts
Actual Power : Up to 5 Watts (from the USB port, or the 12V socket), Up to 7 Watts on the proprietary Guide 10+ connector port (Guide 10 only).

Guide 10+ AA/AAA Power Bank
Maximum Output Power : 5 Watts (that's 1A @ 5V on the USB Port)

Kit Weight : 1.2 lbs / 545g
We put the kit on our scale and found it to actually be 1.5lbs (668g).

Analysis

The Guide 10 Plus Kit is a well-built solar charger, but like any tool, it is designed for specific applications, and may not be appropriate for your use.

Power...

The Nomad 7 specifications are not always clearly stated on websites. Although this is technically a 7 Watt solar panel, you will only get a maximum of 5 Watts from it unless you use the Guide 10 Plus' proprietary solar port cable.
This solar port cable is only 8" long, which means the Guide 10 can only be packed in the Nomad's mesh pocket, and not in the safer, and more weather-resistant confines of your backpack or tent.

Performance...

As a crystalline solar panel, the Nomad 7 was designed with strong, direct sunshine in mind. Africa, Nepal, the Southwest US are all places this panel will perform well.
Crystalline solar panels do not perform well in low light, overcast, & partial shade conditions. In fact, shade as little as 10% of the Nomad panel, and you will get no power from it at all.
Rating for tropical & mid-latitude destinations : Excellent
Rating for northern latitudes & variable weather : Poor
The Guide 10 Plus AA/AAA power bank is very handy if you have AAA or AA batteries to charge for headlamps or radios. We recommend using Imedion brand NiMh rechargeables with the Guide 10, as they will not self-discharge like regular NiMh cells will.
However, if you don't have AA or AAA battery devices, then the Guide 10 is not the most efficient power storage option. Lithium battery packs offering the same capacity are 60g (or 30%) lighter, and will not have the same self-discharge problem as the Guide 10 (when used with standard NiMh cells).

Weight...

Compared to other options in its power class, this is a heavy kit. If you are carrying it yourself, you will notice the 1.5 lbs (668g) of extra weight.

Weather Considerations...

Overcast? : No
Partial Shade? : No
Direct Sunshine? : Yes
Rain? : Not going to charge, so stow it... the panel won't charge, & the Guide 10 battery is typically stored in the back pocket of the panel, and should NOT be exposed to rain or excessive moisture
Waterproof? : No (not appropriate for kayaking, canoeing, or other water sports)

Works With...

Small USB Devices?Yes (ie iPhones, iPods, eReaders, p/s cameras)
Large USB Devices? : No (ie iPads & tablets)
dSLR Cameras? : No (unless using a universal USB charger, but performance is slow)
Laptops? : No

Conclusions...

If you are looking for a lightweight solar charging solution for backpacking, the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus is NOT your best choice. It was designed around African humanitarian aid projects, and remains best suited to such applications.
There are UltraLight solar kits available using the same crystalline solar cells that are half the weight for the same power output.
The fact that the Guide 10 Plus solar kit will not charge dSLR camera batteries is a definite drawback. A typical dSLR will need a 5W solar panel, but operating in the 12V range, not USB.

Lastly, this is not the best solar kit for Canadians who plan to use the kit primarily in Canada.
During summer months, at Canada's lower latitudes, the Goal Zero Nomad 7 solar panel will perform very well, provided it can be exposed to direct sunshine for as many hours of the day as possible.
At higher Canadian latitudes, the panel's solar cells are not sensitive enough to generate power that would justify carrying the weight of the kit. Thin Film solar panel kits are a much better choice for Canada in general, as their sensitivity, and tolerance of low-light & partial shade conditions, generates more power in less-than-ideal conditions.

Tropics, Deserts, High Altitude : Yes
Canada & Northern Latitudes : No

Monday, December 8, 2014

5 Questions for Pocket Solar Chargers

I've been seeing a huge number of 'gadget' solar chargers on the market this year. Everything from keychain size up to devices larger than your hand. Personally, I think this is fantastic, and am glad to see so many alternative energy products making it into the retail realm.

However, I do know that many of these products are not built very well, and many manufacturers cut corners. And if a Chinese factory cannot secure an OEM contract with a recognized North American brand name, they tend to dump their wares on Amazon. A pretty picture, and statements about charging digital cameras & phones, should not always be trusted.

So, how can you spot the good ones?
Well, apart from always checking ModernOutpost.com, use the following 5 questions to guide you...

1. Is the solar panel the thin-film variety?
Thin film doesn't require direct sunlight, while crystalline does. So thin film solar cells will provide a charge in most weather conditions. A thin film solar panel will outperform a crystalline panel of the same power rating any day of the week. Less efficient, but far more effective!
If they don't tell you, it will be the cheapest form of crystalline, and not worth buying.

2. Solar Panel Power?
Pocket chargers like to quote the capacity of their battery pack, or confuse you by telling you that they can pump out 2100 mAH from their USB port. All very good, but how quickly they charge from the sun is the key spec they don't always tell you.
Look for a panel of at least 2 Watts... this is large enough to cover 50% of a smartphone battery April-Sept.

3. Battery Capacity?
Look for at least 4,000 mAHr, or you won't get even 1 full charge on a Samsung Galaxy or iPhone 6.

4. Pass-Through Charging?
Pass-Through charging means that your solar gadget is able to charge your phone or camera while it is charging itself. This seems like an obvious point, but a huge number of USB batteries & solar gadgets don't do it. Imagine having to wait until your solar charger gadget is almost full before charging your phone, and while charging your phone, not being able to collect the sun's energy (or even use the USB port)! This is a must-have feature!

5. Apple Compatible?
You might not have an Apple product, but you should care if your solar gadget supports Apple.
Why?
Because if the manufacturer has taken the time to ensure that the USB port is fully functional, and able to support the fussiest of personal electronics, it is far more likely to be a product that you can rely on to charge any USB device.

Send me a note if you want my opinion on any particular product you see online.
Cheers!

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Solar Trickle Charging Stored Vehicle Batteries During Canadian Winters

Need to store an RV, car, boat, SeaDoo, or ATV for the winter?
Here's a quick look at your solar options for keeping your vehicle battery maintained through our Canadian winter, and avoid the cost of a ruined battery in the spring.

How much power do you need?

A typical flooded lead-acid battery will self-discharge at approx 40% per year. Doing the math, this means that for a typical group 27 or group 31 battery, you will need to offset at least 1 Watt-Hour per day. Sounds easy enough.
But, before you run out and purchase one of those little dashboard solar panels, there are a few things to consider...

1. What sunlight exposure are you likely to get?
2. Are you wanting to charge through a window?
3. Are there any 'mystery loads' on the battery?
4. What solar cell chemistry will be used?
5. Do you need a charge controller?

I'll deal with each of these quickly...

1. Sunlight Exposure

Winter in Canada. Need I say more?
Even if you get a string of sunny days, if you can't get a sunburn, then neither can the solar panel!
Check for obstructions like trees. Shading will drastically cut your solar charger's output.
So, considering only our latitude & weather, solar radiation for most Canadian locations can fall from a summer high of 5-6 peak-sun hours per day to less than 2. In the case of Vancouver, it falls to less than 1 in December!

This means that for most Canadian locales, you will need at least a 2W panel to deliver your desired 1 Watt-Hour Per Day of power (for the smaller group 27 & 31 battery formats).

If you have trees shading your property for part of the day (hopefully not the middle of the day), then double this estimate.

2. Charging Through A Window

Window glass absorbs a lot of UV. So much so, that any solar panel charging through a window will lose as much as 50% of its power output because most of its power is generated from UV light.
So, if you plan to use a dashboard-mounted solar panel, you'd better double your original estimate for power needs. That 2W panel is now up to 4-5 Watts with a window in the way.

3. Mystery Loads?

Clocks, meters, and stand-by control circuits all work to drain your battery power without you noticing. If you can disconnect them all for the winter, great!
If you can't disconnect them all, you'd better make an allowance for the power lost, which can be at least as much as the natural self-discharge rate of the battery.
Poof! We are now up to 8 Watts of solar to keep our single battery maintained.

4. Solar Cell Chemistry

Some solar cells are more sensitive than others. For Canadian latitudes & climate, we will want the most sensitive so that we can collect the most power in any daylight conditions. It just so happens that the most sensitive is NOT crystalline silicone cells like the ones you see on rooftop systems. Crystalline Silicone panels are the most efficient, and therefore produce the most power per square inch "In Direct Sunlight".

The solar cells most recommended for low-light & partial shade conditions are the amorphous silicone or "Thin-Film" solar panels. These have a very flat appearance, and do not have the little rectangular or hexagonal wafers wired together under the glass.

The other advantage of thin film panels is that they can be produced in foldable or rollable format for easy storage, and are very light weight.

5. Is A Charge Controller Needed?

The usual answer is 'YES', however if the panel is only being used for trickle charging, offers less than 1% of the battery's capacity in Amp-Hours, and operates in the 15-16V range under load, then you can safely forgo the charge controller.
That being said, I advise getting one just to be certain your batteries are being cared for during peak sun seasons.

Products To Check Out...

Here are a few solar panels that can help you in keeping your vehicle batteries charged over the winter months...


& a couple of handy traditional crystalline panels designed for all types of vehicles...


Let me know if you need any help determining how to keep your boat, RV, ATV, SeaDoo, or other vehicle battery maintained over the winter.