Charging dSLR Camera Batteries from USB

The portable power and portable solar charger world is divided into two camps: USB & 12V. USB for the small stuff, and 12V for the big stuff. The smaller solar USB chargers are designed to keep phones & iPods charged. The larger 12V solar products being used to charge just about everything up to & including laptops, medical equipment, and homes. But what if you want to use a USB source to charge a dSLR camera battery? Can you charge a 7.4V battery from a 5V source?

Digital Cameras & Solar Chargers

If you have a small point-and-shoot camera, chances are the camera uses a small 3.6V or 3.7V lithium battery pack. There are great, because they can often charge inside the camera when plugged into a USB source (ie for image download), or via small USB chargers like the LenMar Clip.

 dSLR camera batteries do not have it so easy. At 7.2V or 7.4V, their battery chargers needed to provide something in the range of 8.4V, which means using a 12V system to get the voltage they need. And 12V solar kits are usually larger and more expensive than their smaller USB cousins.

Now there is a solution...

For years, I have been recommending universal chargers like the Ansmann Vario, Ansmann Vario Pro, and the Lenmar BCUNI2. These chargers do a fine job charging 3.6/3.7V, 7.2/7.4V, and AA batteries from a wall socket or 12V car socket (including 12V solar panels & battery packs). One charger to do it all. As noted in other articles I've written on the subject, the only camera battery I have come across so far that does not fit these universal chargers is the Canon LP-E6 (battery terminal contacts are too close together).
When a client needed to charge their Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, or other dSLR camera models while out in the bush, I would direct them to 12V systems, and one of these universal chargers.

But now, a new universal charger is available that allows these larger camera batteries to be charged from a USB source. The advantage is being able to pack smaller, lighter USB solar kits & storage batteries to keep the cameras charged...

PIXO C-USB Universal Charger from PIXO of Germany
Features...
Automatically selects correct voltage & polarity
Charge rate up to 800mA
USB2 & USB3 compatible
Adjusts to a wide variety of camera battery sizes & shapes
Deep discharge battery revival mode

Brief Review...
I've had the chance to use the PIXO C-USB charger for a little over 3 months now, and so far it has performed very well. The USB input port & included cable are very robust. The charger chassis is solid, including the sliding door which holds the battery in place. The springs which help to hold the battery firmly in place are strong. The terminal blades are rather important, and the PIXO's are plenty tough - would be quite difficult to bend.
The charging performance itself has been good. It clearly indicates charging modes (charging/end), and it doesn't take much longer than a wall charger would to bring a camera battery up from 50% depletion. It is slightly slower when charging a 7V camera battery due to the voltage transform (I used a Sony NP-F550 as a test).

Conclusion...
I have no problem recommending the PIXO C-USB charger. Best of all, I am no longer bound to 12V options for dSLR users. I can now specify USB-based solar & battery packages like the Voltaic FUSE 6W or Nepal 6 Kit to people who want to take their dSLR cameras into the wild.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions regarding this charger.

Personal Power for Nepal Trekkers

I just helped Mick Bromley of Wilderness Trekking head off to Nepal on his latest excursion with two sets of portable solar power systems. One is designed to keep a videographer's equipment charged while he chronicles Mick's legendary attention to every aspect of the Nepal experience. The second is for Mick himself, so that he is able to keep his own camera, tablet, and communications gear charged. His system will also come in handy when his clients need a power boost for their own cameras.

Here is an overview of the systems...

For the Videographer : SunLINQ 5 Solar Panel with Brunton Sustain2 Storage Battery & LP-E6 DC Charger

The SunLINQ panel folds down small & light, and features CIGS efficient thin film cells that excel in the high-UV exposure at altitude, and at the higher ambient temperatures in the lower regions of the country. The Brunton Sustain is a ruggedized lithium pack that stores 75 Watt-Hours of power... enough for 5 full charges on a Canon dSLR battery, so there is plenty of back-up in case of several days of inclement weather.

The balance is in the logistics. With the panel deployed for several hours each day during stops, or at camp, the power produced will easily offset the power being drawn for camera battery charging & video editing/archiving. The power budget was designed around the need for 2-3 Canon LP-E6 charges per day. Because it is never a good idea to drain a lithium battery below 50% on a regular basis, the videographer will be bringing several battery packs that he will top-off at various times during the day & at camp at night.
Lastly, I do not like the DC input connector provided with the Brunton Sustain2. Too fragile, and introduces a mysterious voltage drop that makes it incompatible with slightly lower voltage panels like the Powerfilm series. So, I sent one of the Modern Outpost Solar Input Cables... a tougher & much longer cable that makes camp set-up options easier.

For Mick : Voltaic Fuse 10W with Ansmann Vario Pro Charger

This is a fantastic solar kit. 10W of premium Bosch crystalline solar cells in a rugged encapsulation, set into a rugged case that can carry a laptop & tablet at the same time. The case features webbing on the back, so strapping it to the outside of a backpack is a simple task. Having all the solar charging gear in one place instead of being spread around with wiring has its advantages too. Mick simply opens the case and connects his camera charger, tablet, phone, radio, or virtually anything else he might need.
The panels produce the power he needs each day, and just in case he runs into bad weather, he has 60 Watt-Hours of power stored in the Fuse10W's internal V60 battery pack.

While laptops, tablets, and USB devices can all be connected directly to the Fuse10's internal battery pack, getting the power from the Fuse10 kit into camera batteries is done via an Ansmann Vario Pro universal charger. Plug the charger into the 12V socket on the Fuse10, snap your camera battery into the cradle, and the charger selects the correct voltage, polarity, and begins charging. It even shows you the state-of-charge so you can better manage your power usage.
Simple. Elegant. Functional. Reliable.

Mick's Client Pick :  Fuse 4W with Pixo Charger

Mick and I talked about an option for his clients, should they want to bring a charger of their own. Something simple to use, simple to pack, rugged, and able to charge virtually any type of camera, phone, iPod, etc. The Voltaic Fuse 4W fits perfectly. 4 Watts of German-made Bosch panels in a small pack that straps to a backpack. Inside is room for small gadgets, & the 4000mAHr solar storage battery, capable of charging or powering everything USB including tablets.

The German Pixo charger is universal, adapting to all 3.6/3.7V camera batteries, plus all 7.2/7.4V dSLR & camcorder batteries (a neat trick not seen in other USB chargers).
This kit is able to offset approx 75% of a dSLR battery every day, or a mix of devices adding up to same.

Well, that's it. Trekking with electronics made easy.
Should you need any further details, or want help with the math concerning your own trekking power needs, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Best!

Solar SmartPhone? Read This First!

Solar charging a smartphone is easy, but there are so many products on the market making promises that it becomes difficult to choose. The purpose of this article is to clear it all up for you.

First, I will tell you what to look for in a solar charger. Second, I will cover a few issues with a simple QnA. If you still have questions after reading this article, please send me an email.

What you're looking for in a solar charger...

1. POWER OUTPUT
Most smartphones these days will not accept power from any USB port not able to provide at least 1,000mA. Do not accept any charger that isn't USB 3.0 or better. A tablet-friendly USB charger is capable of 2100mA maximum output, and this is preferable to anything less. Don't worry... your device won't blow-up just because the port is capable of higher output. Your device is in control of its own charging, and will accept the power it needs.

2. POWER STORAGE
A smartphone holds approx 6 Watt-Hours of power (1400mAHr). Due to losses in the charging process, this means your solar charger will need to provide at least 8 Watt-Hours (2200mAHr) of power if you are charging your phone from a completely dead state.

3. SOLAR POWER
In my experience, if a solar charger product is not able to charge itself from a completely dead state over the course of two summer days (or faster), then it is a weak design. For example, I would expect to see nothing less than a 1 Watt solar module on a charger with a 2200mAHr storage battery inside. It makes no sense to wait 4 days for a full charge from sunlight.

4. PORT COMPATIBILITY
USB ports are supposed to be standard, and yet I constantly see smartphones reject certain ports for one reason or another. So, I have come to rely on one simple test that removes the frustration: Apple compatibility. Even if you are using the latest BlackBerry or Android, if the solar charger says it is compatible with the fussiest USB products around (ie Apple), then it will usually work for you.

Now a little QnA...

1. Can I plug into the charger anytime, or do I have to wait until it is charged?
Plug in anytime.
Some solar chargers will stop charging themselves from sunlight while you charge your smartphone, while others will use both the solar output and their internal battery to charge your device.

2. Can I go straight from a solar panel to my smart phone?
Not usually. The reason relates to point #1 above. If the panel is not able to provide upwards of 500mA at any given time, and preferably 1,000mA, then unlikely that your phone will acknowledge the solar panel's existence.

3. How many charges will I get each day from the solar charger?
A typical 0.5W/2200mAH solar charger will be able to keep up with 25% usage of your smartphone (summer, with good daily exposure). Twice the solar panel will provide twice the power offset.
If all you want is a back-up battery with a cool solar add-on, then I advise getting a battery capacity of at least 2200mAH so you can charge your phone fully one time (or from 50% down twice). If you are a heavy smartphone user, then get a battery capacity of at least 4000mAH.

4. How long do these chargers last?
If you take care of it, and don't completely drain the battery on a regular basis, then a typical lithium-based battery will operate properly for several years. Stick to solid names like Powerfilm, Brunton, Eton, Voltaic, and others to ensure that you are getting the highest quality components in your charger.

I look forward to your questions!

Showdown : Thin Film vs Crystalline Solar Panels

As should be expected, I get asked all the time what is the best solar panel to use. There are essentially two types: Thin Film & Crystalline. Each have their own sub groups, like amorphous silicone & CIGS in the thin film realm, and poly crystalline and monocrystalline in the other. But what is the 'best'? The answer is, as it always is... it depends.

I know, that is not very satisfying. So I will look at the technologies from several different perspectives. These are the metrics that people care about most when purchasing a solar charger, and my suggestion would be to choose the three that are most important to you, and choose the technology that satisfies these best.

1. Efficiency
The efficiency title goes to the crystalline solar cells.
Crystalline solar cells are upwards of 20% efficient in commercial-grade cells now, compared to something in the 10% range for the thin films.
However, you need to understand what this means. This does NOT mean that a 5W crystalline panel is more powerful than a 5W thin film. A Watt is a Watt after all, and in peak sun, two 5W panels will each be generating 5W of power regardless of the solar chemistry. A higher efficiency simply means that you will produce more Watts per square meter. The 5W thin film will be approximately twice the size of the 5W crystalline panel.

2. Weight
The weight loss winner is: Thin Film.
Even though the crystalline solar panel is half the size, it weighs more due to the rigid backing needed to protect the crystalline cell wafers & associated wiring. All that aluminum, plastic, resin, & PVC add to the weight of the crystalline solar panels. If only silicon wafers weren't so fragile!
Thin films on the other hand can be laminated or even sprayed onto all sorts of surfaces. The result is solar panels that can be flexible, and add far less weight to your pack.
If you need to carry it, the thin film panels will be nicer to your knees.

3. Sensitivity
It's not psychology, it's chemistry... Thin films are more sensitive
This is a VERY IMPORTANT attribute, and one which should be considered carefully. Sensitivity simply means that the solar cells will start generating power in lower light levels. The practical side of this is that a thin film panel will enjoy a longer charging day than crystalline panels will.
An experiment to illustrate...
I ran a test of several different solar panels one drizzly morning in late May. I had a Powerfilm R-7 rollable, a Brunton SolarFlat 5, Goal Zero Nomad 7, SunLINQ 3, and a Voltaic 3.4W kit. The only panels that were producing enough voltage at 10am on that drizzly, overcast, late spring morning were the thin films (Powerfilm, Brunton, SunLINQ). The crystalline panels were back at 50% of their nominal charging voltage. Crystalline solar cells work best in direct sunlight. Anything else, and thin films are your best option.

4. Durability
I give the championship belt to... thin film.

Voltaic Fuse 10W - Crystalline

This is a difficult parameter to gauge sometimes, because a lot depends on the construction of the product itself. But, when I think about which solar panels could survive being dropped off a cliff, there is no question that being lightweight & flexible has its advantages.
Durability is not to be confused with longevity... the 20-year power output warranty on crystalline panels is not yet matched by the thin films. Crystalline wafers lose their ability to generate power over a much longer time frame.

5. Cost
The winner is you.
What I mean by this is that product differentiation has rendered this parameter almost impossible to gauge. There are so many products for so many applications using so many variations of solar cells, that the only way to consider 'cost' properly is to shortlist products based on the above parameters, and then consider cost last. But, if we look at the cost of a basic framed panels to level the construction materials & manufacturing playing field, then we can see a slight advantage to crystalline panels. Maybe it has something to do with an over-supply of solar cells from China in recent years, but a quick web price search and calculation shows approx $5/Watt for crystalline, and $6/Watt for thin film.

How to choose?

Powerfilm R7 Rollable - Thin Film

I always start with the question: "Where are you going?"
If you are a westcoast Kayaker, or work in the mountains or up north where the weather is relatively unpredictable, you will likely find a more sensitive solar panel (ie thin film) to be your best option. If you do education programs in rural Africa, or development missions to Haiti, where direct sunlight is not a problem, then crystalline panels may be your best value.
Then consider matching the size of the panel to your power needs, deciding on power storage batteries, and the packability of the product, connectivity, etc.

Need any help choosing?
Send me a note!

Solar Advice : Charging Your Camera

I thought it might be handy to provide a quick reference to the essential info you need to know in order to charge any camera. From simple point & shoot models to top-end dSLRs. I promise not to go into great detail like I do on ModernOutpost.com... just the essential info.

First things first... a couple of important FAQs...

"Can I use the charger that came with my camera?"
No. To do so requires additional equipment you won't want to carry, & you will waste a lot of solar power in the process too. For simplicity & efficiency, use a DC charger instead (see info below).

"I already have a solar panel... can I use it?"
Yes. Follow through this article as if you don't already have a panel, and then see my "What If" notes at the end.

"I have some other devices to charge, like my phone & GPS. What do I do?"
No problem. Read through this article assuming just your camera, then see the "What If" notes at the end.

Here we go...


What kind of battery does your camera use?


A : If it uses a little 3.6V or 3.7V battery pack, see the USB Charging sections below
B : If it uses a little 7.2V or 7.4V battery pack, see the 12V Charging sections below
C : If it uses AA batteries, see the NiMh AA Charging sections below

Next, we choose a DC charger to use instead of the AC model that came with your camera...

A : USB Charging
You'll be happy to know that this is the simplest, and least expensive of all the solar charging options.
Here is the charger you will want...
        Lenmar Universal USB Clip Charger
Why? It adapts to virtually any small 3.6/3.7V battery, holds it securely, uses very little power for its own functions. Simple is beautiful. Is it safe? Yes... all the smarts are in the battery packs these days anyway, so the charger doesn't need to do much.
Got a camera that can charge directly in the camera via the sync cable? Great, give it a try to make sure it works from solar... the camera might consume some power itself to do the job, but it saves you the cost of buying an additional charger.

B : 12V Charging
You have a larger battery pack for a dSLR, camcorder, or premium point-&-shoot. No problem. Here's are the chargers I most commonly recommend...
        Ansmann Vario
        Ansmann Vario Pro
        Generic 3-Way
Why one of these? They adapt to your battery, and any other camera battery you might ever own, & can power from wall socket, car, or solar panel. The 3-Way can also power from USB, but it is slow.
Want to save a few bucks? You can use one of the generic AC/DC chargers designed for your particular camera battery model. See them here.

C : NiMh AA Charging
Definitely the cheapest type of camera battery around, but you probably find that you need to charge more frequently. Use the following charger...
        PowerEx C401
Why? Your camera might use 2 AA batteries, it might use 3, it might use 4. Regardless, you will want to charge each battery individually, so you will want a charger that has single channels (ie not just 2 or 4 batteries at a time). Also, this charger doesn't use much power for itself, and it is happy with a low-power source (ie it won't complain if it can't get lots of power from your solar panel when the sun goes behind a cloud).

Next, we choose a solar panel to meet your needs...

A : USB Charging
Check the printed specs on your battery pack. Most of these small 3.6/3.7V battery packs are in the 1,000mAH range (a measure of the capacity of the battery).
If you plan to drain a full battery every 1-3 days...
        SUNLINQ1 -or- SUNLINQ Mini
If you plan to drain a full battery once or twice a day...
        SUNLINQ2
Why these? Because you are mobile, you need a panel that works well in indirect sunlight & lightweight & easy to pack. The heavy crystalline panels, and gimmicky pocket chargers are simply not your best fit.

B : 12V Charging
Check the printed specs on your battery. Most of the 7.2/7.4V batteries are in the 1200mAH range (a measure of capacity), with camcorders often upwards of 2,000mAH.
If you plan to drain a full camera battery every 2-3 days...
        Powerfilm 5 -or- Powerfilm R-7
If you plan to drain a full battery once or twice each day...
        Powerfilm 10 -or- Powerfilm R-7
If you plan to drain a full camcorder battery each day...
        Powerfilm R-14 -or- SUNLINQ4
Why these? Sensitive solar cell technology gives you power in a wide range of sunlight conditions, plus they are the lightest available for packing. The Powerfilm "R" panels are made for boats, kayaks & wet places.

C : NiMh AA Charging

I'll go on the assumption that you have good quality AA's with capacity of at least 2,000mAH.
If you plan to drain a pair of AA's every day...
        Powerfilm 5 -or- Powerfilm R-7
If you plan to drain four AA's each day...
        Powerfilm 10 -or- Powerfilm R-7
Why these? Sensitive solar cell technology gives you power in a wide range of sunlight conditions, plus they are the lightest available for packing. The Powerfilm "R" panels are made for boats, kayaks & wet places.

Putting It Together...

That's about it for solar-direct charging of your camera. Put the battery in the charger, plug the charger into the solar panel, and expose to as much sunlight as possible.

Considerations & "What If's"...

"What if I want to charge at night when it is more convenient?"
Simply use a solar storage battery to store your solar panel's power during the day. Then you can plug in your charger anytime, day or night, to charge your camera battery at full speed (ie not dependent on the sunlight conditions from moment to moment).
Which solar storage battery you choose depends on your solar panel type (USB or 12V), and how much storage you want for the locations you travel to, and of course your budget.

"I already have a solar panel... can I use it?"
Absolutely. The same recommendations outlined above apply, but you will need to compare the output of your panel against my recommendations in order to properly budget your power. For example, if you have a little 0.5W pocket USB charger, then it will take 4x as long to get the same power as the SUNLINQ1 recommended above. Consider this against your desired camera usage.
If you have a 12V solar panel, but the above discussion led you to a USB solution, then use the 3-Way charger.

"What if I have other things to charge?"
Once you have access to your own power everywhere you go, you soon find the need to charge more than what you originally intended. Plus, you will probably want to sell power to the other people in your group & recoup some of your investment!
Anyway, if you want to add something small like a phone or iPod, the above systems will handle the small additional demand. Use your USB Sync cable in the case of USB solar panels, and use your device's car adaptor if you have a 12V solar panel. Plug & play.
Smart Phones & Tablets Alert!
These things are fussy, and demand a minimum amount of power (500mA in the case of an iPhone, 1500mA in the case of an iPad). So, these will not charge solar-direct easily... use a solar storage battery to provide the necessary power.

"What if I have a lot of extra things to charge?"
We will need to talk about it to make sure you get the equipment that will cover your needs properly. Send me an email (see the sidebar or ModernOutpost.com), and we'll review your equipment list, destination, time of year, and mobility to create a system & power budget.

Thanks for reading! I hope you found it useful.
Be sure to tell your friends, colleagues, & travel mates!
Let me know if you have any questions or comments, I am always happy to help.

Considering A Goal Zero Solar Kit? Read this first.

Everyone in the solar industry has at least heard of Goal Zero by now. They are the American portable solar power company that was born out of african humanitarian aid projects. Goal Zero builds some fantastic products... heck, I sell a lot of them myself (see here). And Goal Zero does a great job of marketing their equipment, which is why you can find it almost everywhere solar panels and innovative outdoor gear are sold. But, should they be on your equipment short-list?

Just as the old saying goes: "There is a tool for every job", so it is with packable solar power systems. In this article, I will take a look at several popular Goal Zero power kits, suggest the best applications for them, and suggest excellent alternatives that may be better suited to your specific needs.

A few numbers to help you compare:

     Smart Phone battery full charge = 5-6 Watt-Hours
     GPS receiver battery full charge = 8+ Watt-Hours
     Tablet PC battery full charge = 20+ Watt-Hours
     Laptop battery full charge = 50+ Watt-Hours

Onward...

The Goal Zero Switch 8 : $139.99 (est)

This is the latest kit release from Goal Zero. It features their Nomad 3.5 folding panel, with the new Switch8 lithium USB battery pack. Following are the key specifications...

     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline

     Max power generation : 2.5 Watts (USB)
                or 3 Watts if using the Guide10 battery

     Power Storage : 7.92 Watt-Hours
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 310g (11.2oz)

The verdict:
Like all Goal Zero products, this kit is very well built to take the abuse of wilderness use. The monocrystalline panel is best suited to direct sunlight, so it makes sense for regions that have a lot of sunshine (Africa, SW USA, Mexico, etc).
But, an integrated Voltaic charger like the Fuse 4W provides better performance with the same solar technology for less money, plus you get a very nice gear case...

Voltaic Fuse 4W : $129.99
     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline

     Max power generation : 4 Watts
     Power Storage : 11.1 Watt-Hours
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 600g (20.8oz)

So, that being said, what USB solar charger would be my lead recommendation for difficult Canadian & other North American locations? If there is a good chance you will get partial shade, variable sun exposure, variable weather, or will be working at high latitudes, then the following will be the best options for you...

1. SUNLINQ1 + Voltaic V11 : $99.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 2 Watts
        Power Storage : 11.1 Watt-Hours
        Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB
        Total Weight : 2.21g (7.9oz)

        - lighter weight, more sensitive in low-light & partial shade,
          & more affordable

2. SUNLINQ2 + Voltaic V39 : $189.99 (est)

        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 4 Watts
        Power Storage : 39 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 2.1A @ 5V USB (supports tablets)
        Total Weight : 540g (19oz)

        - More power in any light condition, greater sensitivity,
          & greater power storage.

The Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Adventure Kit : $119.99 (est)

This is the most popular Goal Zero kit. It features their Nomad 7 folding panel, with the Guide 10 Plus USB battery pack. This kit has all sorts of strange specifications... it says the rated output of the panel is 7 Watts, but the most you can get out of it is 6 Watts (USB) if connected directly to the Guide 10 pack using the special cable.
Following are the key specifications...

     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline

     Max power generation : 2.5 Watts (USB), 3 Watts (12V socket),
                          or 6 Watts via special Guide10 interface cable

     Power Storage : 12 Watt-Hours
                         (using 4 NiMh rechargeables - included)
     Max output : 1,000mA @ 5V USB via Guide 10,
                         (see above for max solar-direct performance)
     Total Weight : 540g (19.2oz)

The verdict:
I find this kit to be a bit disappointing... for $120 you get a very low-power 12V charger, and a very ordinary USB charger. I like the concept of the dual-voltage Nomad panel, but it is NOT a 7W panel! At the performance level of the Nomad 7, you should not expect to be able to charge many things directly from the panel... certainly not your iPhone or iPad. The monocrystalline solar cell type is best suited to direct sunlight, so it makes sense for regions that have a lot of sunshine (Africa, SW USA, Mexico, etc), so you might get frustrated in non-intense sunlight.
The Guide 10 performs well, and being able to use NiMh cells comes in handy, but even it lacks the punch to support many of the new 'smart' devices while they are running.

So, what alternatives would I recommend for Canadian latitudes & most North American locations? What systems would properly support 12V & USB devices in difficult weather & mountainous terrain?...

1. Powerfilm F5 + Novuscell 24 : $279.99 (est)
        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 4.8 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 24 Watt-Hours
        Max output : approx 20 Watts (2.1A @ 5V USB -or- 2A @ 11.1V)
        Total Weight : 340g (12oz)

        - lighter weight, more sensitive in low-light & partial shade,
           & powers far more 12V & USB devices (which is the point!)

2. Powerfilm R-7 + Voltaic V60 : $289.99 (est)

        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 6.9 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 60 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 48 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 840g (29.6oz)

        - More power in any light condition, greater sensitivity,
          waterproof solar, & greater power storage,
          varied output voltage support.

Keep these options in mind, as they form a foundation for looking at the next level of portable power. This brings us to the last of the three Goal Zero kits I will look at in this article...

The Sherpa 50 Solar Recharger : $349.99 (est)
Goal Zero has put this kit together to address the varied needs of remote camps, serious trekkers, and anyone who has a comprehensive list of electronics to keep running while miles from civilization. The 13W Nomad panel is a good match to the Sherpa 50, and the combination supports both 12V & USB devices.
Here are the details...
     Solar Panel Type : Monocrystalline
     Max power generation : 13 Watts (12V), 5W (USB)
     Power Storage : 55 Watt-Hours (Sherpa 50 v2)
     Max output : 75W @ 12V & 1.5A @ 5V USB
     Total Weight : 1.22Kg (2.7 lbs)

The verdict:
This is a good kit, but again designed for sunny, tropical environments. The Nomad 13 panel provides solid 12V output, plus a USB option that is strong enough for fussy USB devices (in full sun of course). If you really need household AC power (not recommended), there is an inverter option for the Sherpa and this in itself is unique for a lithium system.

So, what alternatives to the Sherpa 50 Solar Kit would I recommend for Canadian latitudes & most other North American locations? What systems would properly support 12V & USB devices in difficult weather & mountainous terrain?

First, I will dispense with an AC inverter option. This is rarely needed as there are more efficient DC options available for most devices. Therefore we are left with specifying a comparable solar panel, but with improved low-light sensitivity, and bundle it with a storage battery that supports 12V & USB devices.
Here they are...

1. SUNLINQ4 + Brunton Sustain : $444.99 (est)

        Solar Panel Type : CIGS thin film
        Max power generation : 12 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 72 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 60 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 937g (2.06 lbs)

2. Powerfilm R-14 + Voltaic V60 : $379.99 (est)

        Solar Panel Type : Amorphous thin film
        Max power generation : 13.9 Watts (12V)
        Power Storage : 60 Watt-Hours
        Max output : up to 48 Watts @ 12V, 16V or 19V, plus 2.1A USB
        Total Weight : 1.14Kg (2.5 lbs)

This concludes my little report on Goal Zero and what alternative equipment combinations I would recommend for Canadian & North American locations. Again, the point of the exercise is to pack along equipment that will work under the widest range of conditions. Goal Zero equipment is good, but not the best option in challenging northern latitudes.

I understand that I presented quite a few numbers here. Sorry about that. I tried to keep them simple so that you can make meaningful comparisons between devices. If you have any questions regarding anything I have presented here, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Cheers!

Performance Report: Powerfilm R-14 & Voltaic V60

A quick report of charging a Voltaic V60 battery pack from a Powerfilm R-14 rollable solar panel...

Solar Panel : Powerfilm R-14
Battery Pack : Voltaic V60
Connectors : Stock CLA connectors provided with the panel & battery
Mounting : 30-Degree slope, facing due south

Date : April 3, 2013
Location: Courtenay, BC, approx latitude 50 degrees north
Weather : Bright overcast
Test duration : 5hrs (10:30am - 3:30pm)

The battery started out with 2 of its 5 status lights, indicating a charge status of approx 40%. At the conclusion of the test, the battery had all 5 status lights turning on in sequence, which would indicate it was in the 90% state-of-charge range. Therefore approx 50% of the battery's capacity was added over the 5 hour period.
The V60's capacity is 60 Watt-Hours, so a 50% charge would amount to 30 Watt-Hours.
This result would indicate that the Powerfilm panel was producing an average 6 Watts of power over the duration of the test, which equates to 43% of its rated output. Given the weather conditions, this was an excellent result.

Conclusion...
I was very pleased with the results of this test. Not only did the Powerfilm panel perform well under the conditions, but the Voltaic V60 battery appears to be very efficient at storing the power it receives. In summer sunshine, this same time period would completely fill the V60.
I have no reservations about recommending this panel & battery pack combination.

Note: This was a static test. The Powerfilm R-14 will achieve nominal charging voltage for the V60 in as little as 10% of full sunshine. Be aware that panel orientation, obstruction, time of day, and weather conditions will all affect the performance.

Please feel free to contact me with any specific questions or comments.

Camping With Your CPAP or BiPAP Machine

As a portable power guy, I get asked quite frequently about powering CPAP & BiPAP machines while camping. My former business partner uses a ventilator in managing his Duchenne's Muscular Dystrophy, so this application is important to me.

First Things First… What is a Watt?

It's difficult to have any discussion of electricity without some basic math. But, I will try to keep it to a minimum. All you really need to know is that I have done some calculations to know how fast your CPAP or BiPAP machine will be taking power out of a battery pack, so that I can estimate how many hours you can operate your machine while camping away from a power source before the battery needs to be recharged.

Powering the Machine…

What I have found in my research, is that a typical machine (Respironics, ResMed, and the like), will draw between 20 & 30 Watts (2-2.5Amps) when not using the humidifier. What this means is that you can use fairly standard battery packs to support your machine through several nights out in a tent.

For example, I have had clients use a battery pack with 150 Watt-Hour capacity to get a full night's sleep of 8 hours with plenty of room to spare. Others have been able to get two 6-hour nights using stingy CPAP machine settings.

Here are a few battery pack options to consider…

Brunton Impel : 145 Watt-Hours : 1-2 nights

Novuscell C150 : 150 Watt-Hours : 1-2 nights

Novuscell C220 : 220 Watt-Hours : 2-3 nights

100 AHr 12V Deep Cycle : 600 Watt-Hours : 3-4 nights

Making Connections...

Most CPAP & BiPAP machines either come with a car adaptor, or have one available as an option from the manufacturer. This is a key piece of equipment, because all battery packs are DC, and this "CLA" connector will let you plug your CPAP into the battery pack exactly as you would plug it into the dashboard of your car. All the battery packs listed above come equipped with this 'CLA' socket just like in your car, and are plug-n-play with your CPAP machine.

Can you use AC power if you want? It can be done, but it is NOT recommended for several reasons. First, inverters waste 20-30% of your battery power in making AC power which your CPAP will be turning back into DC power anyway. So don't waste this power if you don't need to... use the DC car plug for your CPAP. Secondly, most Lithium batteries do not support AC inverters. The Novuscell models listed above are able to handle small 200W inverters, but save them the stress and stick to DC. Lastly, using an inverter just adds one more piece of equipment to carry, so use only when necessary.

Portability…

One of the most important aspects of camping is to be able to go into remote areas. To do this comfortably means NOT packing anything too heavy, so it becomes a balancing act between weight and the amount of power you need each night.

The lightest battery packs are lithium-based, such as the Brunton Impel, and Novuscell models listed above. In a battery that weighs only 2-4 pounds, you can store enough power for up to 3 nights.

Recharging In The Wild…

What do you do if you need more than 1-2 nights' support for your CPAP or BiPAP machine?

In the absence of a vehicle to act as a generator for recharging your CPAP camping battery, one of the most logical solutions is to use portable solar panels. For example, a 20 Watt panel will offset approx 50% of your CPAP power usage, while a 60 Watt panel will completely replace the power you use each night.

Here are a few examples of such panels (smallest I would recommend). I have selected the panels that perform best in partial shade (ie under trees), and in low-light conditions (ie overcast), because you never know what you might get out there…

Powerfilm R-21 : Waterproof, rollable, tough

Solaris 26 : Folding efficiency

Powerfilm 20 : Folding sensitivity (the lightest option)

Affording A Portable Power System…

At this point, you might be thinking that these products are rather expensive for someone who might only be going camping with their CPAP or BiPAP machine a couple of times each summer. To help, Modern Outpost has introduced a power system rental program. Now you can save the expense of owning a portable solar power system, and be sure of getting the latest & greatest equipment for supporting your CPAP while camping.

I hope this helps.

If you have any comments, questions, suggestions, or experience that will add to this discussion, please share it with us.

Best!